Kuala Lumpur | Meet Malaysia

Chapters:

 

1. Hello, KL!

2. The City

3. The Cuisine

4. The Traditional

5. The Modern

5. The Modern

Muslims are the majority in KL, making up about 45% of the population.

You’ll meet Muslims who pray 5 times per day and abstain from eating pork or drinking. You’ll also meet Muslims that hit the bars and nightclubs on the weekend.

Technically, it’s illegal for Malaysian Muslims to drink or do things that violate Islamic codes. In KL, though, the breaking of Islamic rules is not only commonplace but generally tolerated by a great many Muslims.

“Nowadays, we don’t judge,” says Hazree, who’s a non-practicing Muslim. “If you’re a Muslim and you want to drink, we don’t judge. We have accepted the fact that it’s very destructive if you try to control other people’s behavior.”

sea stories kuala lumpur
A mosque at the historic district. This is where KL gets its name. "Kuala Lumpur" roughly translates to "muddy confluence" or "place where the muddy rivers meet."

Cat mostly agrees.

“There will always be people who are judgmental. But in general, people are definitely more tolerant in KL.”

Both Cat and Hazree say that Malaysia’s diverse array of cultures and religion have made it more accepting of different kinds of lifestyles. The Islamic laws do exist, but they mostly apply to Muslim citizens and these rules are only selectively and not widely enforced. There are more than a few Malaysians who want these rules to be done away with entirely.

Visiting KL is a fascinating experience for westerners because it reminds us there are many shades of Muslim, just like there are many shades of Christian, Jew, or Buddhist.

sea stories kuala lumpur
sea stories kuala lumpur

It’s no wonder the Petronas Twin Towers are the most iconic landmark in the city. Molding ancient Islamic symbols into looming skyscrapers that shine like diamonds in the night sky, the Petronas Towers are the prefect representation of the city’s bridging of the past and present.

Modernity has brought a good deal of luxury to the city, especially when it comes to the nightlife. There’s a wide assortment of nightclubs, cocktail bars, wine bars, and also rooftop bars that offer unbelievable views of the skyline.

sea stories kuala lumpur
SkyBar51 cocktail bar.
sea stories kuala lumpur
The view from SkyBar51.

“KL is a little bit of everything,” says Hazree. “You have a little bit of culture, and a little bit of modernity. A little bit of fun, and a little bit of chill.”

Locals eat street food and shop at neighborhood markets, yet they also fill up shopping malls. They work long hours but stay up late to hang out. There are laws that govern Muslim behavior, but rulebreaking is the norm. It’s a big, busy city but it’s also quite relaxed.

I wrote that Kuala Lumpur blends the traditional and modern; more accurately speaking, it’s a city of beautiful and mostly harmonious contradictions that capture, simultaneously, how the world used to be and also what it’s becoming.

sea stories kuala lumpur
The Sultan Abdul Samad Building at Merdeka Square.

Modernity can be frightening for a country steeped in tradition. The locals handle it with a good amount of grace, as Malaysians tend to do.

Hazree performing in KL.

Hazree, like many young Malaysians, is hopeful about the future and open to all possibilities. Cynicism is a tough food to find in this town.

“I’m focusing more on the chef thing. But if the chance presents itself of being a rock star or whatever, I would take the chance!

“Sometimes you have to take that leap of faith.”

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4. The Traditional

Meet Malaysia