Tioman Island | Meet Malaysia
Meet Malaysia is a blog series that explores the most amazing dive destinations in Malaysia, with insights by the locals who know them best.
Author: Zachary Cabading
Published: June 30, 2023
Pulau Tioman is proof that the “hidden gem” still exists in this day and age. It’s a Malaysian island, just a few hours from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, with probably the coolest diving you’ve never heard of.
Tioman is graced with huge, healthy, and biodiverse coral reefs. The reefs support an enormous number of schooling fish, with immense coral fields that you won’t find at many other places. What’s more astonishing is that so few divers know about this island. There are social and historical reasons for that — has nothing to do with the quality of the diving.
Photographer: Martin Ritter.
Against all odds, Tioman has evaded the clutches of mass tourism — perhaps the secret behind the island’s healthy coral. It’s the rare destination that lets you fully immerse yourself in the local culture, which is humble, welcoming, and unconcerned about milking every last dime from your wallet. This might be one of the most purely authentic dive destinations you’ll ever visit.
Scuba Diving on Tioman
Tioman is so obscure that nobody really expects anything from it, so divers are frequently caught-off guard by just how beautiful and fun the diving is.
Tioman has some of the largest coral meadows that I’ve ever seen. The hard coral meadows are the most impressive, made from species like plate, staghorn, and hump coral.
Soft coral meadows grow over the deeper rock formations, and they’re so thick and dense that in some places it’s difficult to find exposed rock.
Other dive sites have beautiful coral gardens with a nice mix of hard and soft coral, like a candy shop.
You’ll find beautiful reefs at all depths, from 5 feet to 70 feet, healthy and full of color. And healthy reefs mean plenty of fish.
Unlike so many dive destinations, the highlight of Tioman is not the bigger animals but rather the smaller fish, which loom over the coral in dense, drifting clouds. What the fish lack in size they make up for in sheer numbers. They’re practically bumping into your mask as you go along, and if you look up at the surface you’ll find it blanketed by their silhouettes.
Pelagic fish aren’t common here because the South China Sea is too shallow and too warm. But you’ll definitely encounter the bigger reef fish.
Schools of snapper cruise over the coral like passenger trains, and at some dive sites you’ll have 3 or 4 batfish take a swim with you until they find something better to do. Expect guest appearances by great barracuda, humphead parrotfish, titan triggerfish, and trevally.
Photographer: Martin Ritter.
The dive sites are very simple. For the most part, you’re going in one direction the whole time until you hit a current or run low on air. It’s the rock formations that make things interesting.
You’ll love this island if you’re a fan of swim-throughs because they’re everywhere. So many of the dive sites are cut by dazzling, dazzling swim-throughs. Inside them you’ll find clusters of little fish hiding out, with beautiful growth on the walls that just shine under the torchlight.
For example, there’s a rockpile called Batu Malang, which has a swim-through that cuts right underneath it and lets you shortcut across the reef. There’s also Fan Canyon, where you can swim through narrow trenches that are prodded with sea fans. When you dive Batu and Fan Canyon back-to-back, you’ve got a pairing as sweet as wine and chocolate.
Other dive sites feature huge boulder formations that are deep and steep, which make excellent canvases for coral reefs. At the bottom-end, you’ll find soft coral and sea fans, which are gradually replaced by hard coral as you head to the shallows. There’s always something new to see, always some interesting rock, or coral garden, or swim-through to explore.
Photographer: Martin Ritter.
However, Tioman is not all coral and schooling fish. You still get all the fixtures of Southeast Asia: pufferfish, cuttlefish, blacktip sharks, blue-spotted stingrays, clownfish, and the usual suspects of the Indo-Pacific. There are lionfish, too–and you don’t have to feel bad when you spot one because they’re not an invasive species in this part of the world.
That’s probably the best way of describing Tioman: it’s guilt-free diving. There’s no fretting about the cost of your trip, or the ecological impact of tourism, or having to leave your newbie divers at home. The price is low, the reefs are healthy, and the diving is for everyone.
Photographer: Martin Ritter.
What's the Best Dive Resort on Tioman?
BnJ Diving Centre is one of the oldest dive centers on the island and undoubtedly the most popular.
Ben Rahman, who is half-Malay and half-German, helped his father open the dive center in 1986. His real name is Zainal, but everyone calls him Ben, after his father.
“I think we get overshadowed,” says Ben, “especially by Sipadan and Layang-Layang.
“But if you look at diversity and coral fields — Tioman, hands down.”
Ben, Sr. and his partner Jean-Claude were the two original owners, hence the name “BnJ.” It might raise an eyebrow or make you snicker because of its closeness to a certain raunchy slang. It actually suits the personality of the owners quite well.
“Satisfaction guaranteed,” smirks Ben.
Photographer: Martin Ritter.
Ben runs the company with his longtime friend, Martin Ritter.
They’re a dynamic duo, with Ben managing the day-to-day operations while Martin handles the marketing.
“I’m lucky enough to have been many places in my life,” says Martin.
“And I’ve realized, damn, this is really great biodiversity that we have at Tioman. And everywhere is fish.”
In so many countries, the locals are only employed as porters or office staff, while the diving jobs go mostly to expats. Not the case in Malaysia, where locals are frequently employed as divemasters and instructors.
The economy in Malaysia is stronger than in neighboring countries, so it’s easier for locals to get the training and experience required to dive professionally. And most Malaysians speak very good English so they’re not hindered by the language barrier.
There’s plenty of local divers on staff at BnJ Diving Centre.
3 Familiar Faces
Danny
Role: Instructor
From: Malaysia
Fun Fact: Danny started working at BnJ as a bartender before being lured into the world of diving.
Danny is the most senior instructor at BnJ, having been on the staff for 10 years. He’s got a swagger earned by a decade of diving these waters.
“I have divers always coming back. Divers that came here 8 years ago and I see them grow. That’s what makes you wanna stick around here.”
Adlin
Role: Instructor
From: Malaysia
Fun Fact: Adlin is working to become a course director.
Adlin has a graceful confidence about her, the mark of a seasoned pro. She’s worked in some awesome places, like the Perhentians, Gili Islands, and Fiji, but she loves the healthy reefs on Tioman.
“When I got here and went diving, in deep waters I see baby corals growing. That’s a really good sign. If you have new corals blooming, imagine ten years later — you’re still going to have a beautiful reef.”
Adlin is also one of the few Muslim women working as a dive instructor, still a rarity in this sport. Not that she gives it much thought.
“I don’t see myself as different. It’s a passion that I wanted to do.”
Dan
Role: Instructor
From: Malaysia
Fun Fact: When someone breaks out a guitar, Dan will happily provide the vocals (in English or Malay).
Dan is one of the dive center’s brightest personalities, with a big smile and a good sense of humor. A city boy from Kuala Lumpur, Dan was quick to embrace the slower pace of island life.
“Tioman is just rich with coral.
“At other islands I worked, it’s common to get whale sharks or mobula rays. But the coral at those islands? Nah.
“Not as good as Tioman.”
Tioman does not have the greatest infrastructure. However, BnJ Diving Centre has everything you need to have a good time. They’ve got the basics and also the bells and whistles.
“Facilities — we have everything,” says Dan. “You want to do Nitrox? You want to do sidemount? You want to do twin set? Want to do rebreather? Whatever you want is possible.”
The dive center runs twin speedboats that get you out to the dive sites in 10 or 15 minutes. They’re not quite luxurious, but they’re a hell of a lot of fun to ride. These engines just purr. A beautiful sound.
The standard lodging on Tioman consists of bare-basic chalets designed primarily for backpackers. Those were the only travelers who came to Tioman back in the day.
When the Malaysian economy picked up, more locals got into scuba diving and ultimately replaced backpackers as the main clientele at the dive center.
Naturally, there was rising demand for higher-end accommodations, so the dive center opened Tioman Dive Resort in 2012.
“We felt it was important that people have a nice place to stay,” says Ben. “I’m a traveler myself, and when I travel I don’t mind spending a little money to get something nice. I’ve done enough roughing! Now I want air con. I want a nice, comfy bed, a mini-fridge where I can chill my beers.
“We have that here.”
The Deluxe Dive Sites
When you speak with the staff and returning divers, it’s clear there’s something of a Tioman Holy Trinity comprised of 3 dive sites: Chebeh Island, Labas Island, and Tiger Reef.
Chebeh Island
Chebeh Island is a steep, sloping reef with impressive underwater topography that’s a mixture of boulders and coral. A massive spread.
“It drops nicely. Has this huge boulder formation that goes all the way down to 30-plus meters. On a clear day you see these coral fields and fan corals and big fish swimming around. It’s amazing.”
–Ben
“The north side of Chebeh has a place we call Pac-Man. It’s a big, granite boulder that looks like the Pac-Man face. It’s covered in corals, and it’s right at the edge where the current blows. Full of fish life. Hundreds of yellow-striped snappers. Dozens of bat fish. There’s a very narrow swim-through that holds glass fish and younger fish, like juvenile barracudas.”
-Martin
Photographer: Martin Ritter.
Labas Island
Labas Island is the poster child of Tioman diving. Beneath the surface, the island is absolutely cratered by swim-throughs. Swiss cheese, as Ben puts it.
“The north side of Chebeh has a place we call Pac-Man. It’s a big, granite boulder that looks like the Pac-Man face. It’s covered in corals, and it’s right at the edge where the current blows. Full of fish life. Hundreds of yellow-striped snappers. Dozens of bat fish. There’s a very narrow swim-through that holds glass fish and younger fish, like juvenile barracudas.”
-Martin
“So many swim-throughs at Labas. And really nice corals outside them.”
-Dan
Tiger Reef
“People are always gonna come here asking to go to Tiger Reef… quite challenging for beginners. We need advanced divers [in order to go there] because there’s a strong current.”
-Danny
“Tiger is nice with the pinnacles and strong current. You need to hide behind the pinnacles.”
-Dan
“It’s in between two islands, so there’s current that brings nutrient-rich water. Therefore, Tiger Reef has very healthy coral. It’s a big challenge at times, but the fish life and the reef are just perfect.”
-Martin
Chebeh and Labas are fairly consistent, but Tiger Reef is moody.
Unlike the other dive sites, Tiger Reef is not anchored to an island. It’s an underwater pinnacle that’s located between two islands, and it’s hit by the current that’s being funneled through them. Smaller fish shelter in the rock and coral formations, while bigger fish use the area as a way station.
As you swim through the pinnacles you’ll play a constant game of hide-and-seek with the current. There’s low visibility on some days, making the dive site hard to appreciate if you’re only diving for your Instagram.
If you’re lucky enough to catch Tiger on a better day, you’ll experience not only the most spectacular dive site on Tioman, but possibly one of the best in this part of Asia. You’ll have the schools of tiny fish and beautiful coral that are natural to Tioman, combined with the schools of bigger fish that are more common at Sipadan.
Ideally, you’ll want a couple go’s at Tiger Reef to try and score the best conditions. Consider traveling with a dive group so you can enjoy the perk of a custom dive site itinerary.
Adventures on Tioman Island
With thriving reefs and playful dive sites, you might expect the cost of Tioman to be up there with the high-priced dive resorts in the Philippines or Sulawesi. Surprisingly, it’s not.
“It’s damn damn damn cheap,” says Dan.
“When you compare us with all the big boys,” says Ben, “we’re just a fraction of the price. Sometimes this can be a turn-off when people see that it’s so cheap. They think, it can’t be good.
“But there’s a reason why we’re cheap.”
Of all the dive destinations in Southeast Asia, Malaysia has the strongest market of local divers. BnJ Diving Centre typically receives about 40% of its business from locals, so the prices are anchored to the Malaysian ringgit and not the euro or American dollar.
“I have to stay put,” says Ben. “I can’t just charge whatever I want because if I do that then I would lose my local market.”
So here’s the big question:
With diving so good, and prices so cheap, why isn’t Tioman a hot commodity?
Well, there could be many reasons.
Tioman doesn’t have the nightlife that appeals to so many young people who visit Southeast Asia. There’s also the fact that Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country, which can make it harder to draw travelers from the west. It could also come down to marketing.
“At dive expos, we have a tourism booth to promote diving in Malaysia,” says Adlin. “But it’s just a small booth. So there’s not much funding to create this awareness of Malaysia. The dive centers here — they themselves have to market Malaysia.”
Of course, part of Tioman’s appeal is that it doesn’t get much tourism.
“The beauty of Tioman is that it never became commercial,” says Ben. “If you would have come here 30 years ago and came back now, you would recognize it. They haven’t cut down the forests or expanded into the island. It’s all nature.”
Tioman is 98% jungle. There are slivers of coastline just wide enough to accommodate small villages, yet the settlements hardly feel settled. You always have the feeling the jungle is creeping forward, steadily closing in on the little homes and bungalows, intent on sweeping civilization off the island and into the sea.
If you’re looking for a raw and rugged paradise, this is it.
“I don’t believe that Tioman will ever have mass tourism,” says Martin. “If you look at the terrain, it’s very difficult to build large hotels.”
Neither the islanders nor BnJ Diving Centre want mass tourism, anyway. Most people who live here feel that the island has struck a good balance.
The locals enjoy a laid-back, family-oriented lifestyle. Most of the businesses are family-run chalets, restaurants, and convenience stores that primarily serve tourists. However, the families will close on a whim for worship, family obligations, or when they feel burnt out. Sometimes this draws the ire of tourists and even the dive center, but it’s also undeniably part of the island’s charm.
Nobody is seeking profits above all else, so it’s easier to unwind on Tioman. You don’t get peddled here, like in so many parts of Southeast Asia, and when someone smiles at you it’s genuine.
Friendliness is the philosophy at BnJ.
“The mission was always to make our divers our friends,” says Ben. “We wanted inclusiveness, so no strangers.
“Sometimes we lose this mission because we get so busy and so caught up in the day-to-day… but you immediately realize the days become longer. You get tired more quickly.
“Sometimes we lose this mission because we get so busy and so caught up in the day-to-day… but you immediately realize the days become longer. You get tired more quickly.
“But when you have a big fun family, then time flies. This is what I’ve been preaching to my staff.”
Westerners tend to know little about Malaysia, so they’re pleasantly surprised by how friendly and accessible the country is.
“What tourists say they like about Malaysia,” says Dan, “is they can make friends with Malaysian people. It’s hard to make friends with some people in Thailand or Indonesia because they will always look at you like a tourist. They just see, cha-ching, cha-ching!
“Malaysian people do things for you not looking for you to repay them.”
When the day’s diving is over, travelers usually spend their time trekking through the jungle, searching the shores for wildlife, or relaxing by the beach. Some people rent a bike and cruise down to Tekek, a neighboring village. It’s always island time on Tioman, and nobody is ever in a rush to do anything or get anywhere.
However, there’s a fair number of people waiting anxiously for 5 PM, when BnJ Bar opens. It’s the only true bar on Tioman, so it draws not only divers but all travelers staying on this part of the island.
Most nights are chill, but the bar occasionally becomes an all-out beach party depending on who and how many are gathered. Ben and Martin are social butterflies, to say the least, and it carries over to their staff. When the vibe gets going, it keeps going.
Case in point: the annual Halloween party, which also marks the end of the dive season. Loyal customers return for the weekend to enjoy a roast and rave, complete with costumes, decorations, and a DJ. [Wish we could share the photos.]
While Tioman is always welcoming to tourists, the islanders do get their annual “introvert time,” courtesy of the winter monsoon season.
There’s plenty of good diving during the monsoon, but BnJ relishes the off-season. It gives the staff an opportunity to rest, travel, and spend time with their loved ones. Plus, the islanders have time to catch up with one another.
“I know everyone in this village,” says Danny, “from one beach to the other. We are close to each other, especially when it’s the monsoon season.”
But when the rainy season ends, the locals are refreshed and ready to welcome back the divers.
“You should come to Tioman and enjoy the stress-free life,” says Dan.
“No stress, brudduh!”
Don’t wait! You should dive this hidden gem before too many people find out about it. Contact Scuba Travel Ventures today to get your adventure started!